repair Archives - Chicago Textile Recycling

The Value of Textiles

June 16, 2021June 4, 2021

Less than a century ago, clothing was a valued possession. Mostly made by hand, it was expensive and hard to come by. Very well-made pieces could be passed down. Much of it was tailored to fit the owner. The few pieces a person owned were well cared for, washed gently and quickly mended to last longer. This is seldom true today.

“We’ve adopted a disconnected, throwaway attitude that extends into the laundry room, and it has erased our knowledge of caring for our clothes. I see wearable clothes in trashcans on my block on a regular basis. While sorting clothes, I see pieces tossed out with stains and small rips that, with proper know-how, can be tackled in minutes.” (Cline, Conscious Closet, p 211-212)

Is this a problem of the durability of clothes or the attitude of consumers or simple lack of knowhow in clothing care? It seems a little bit of all three.

Durability of Clothing

“How long should clothing last? We don’t often find out. Most everyday casual clothing like jeans, T-shirts, socks and basic knits can and should last at the bare minimum one hundred to three hundred wears, or three years of regular wear and washing.” (Wrap UK Guide cited in Conscious Closet)

However, many consumers never reach that mark.

“Let’s put that in perspective. We know from Chapter 16 that some consumers wear their clothes only three times, which amounts to 3 percent of a typical garment’s useful life.” (Telegraph article cited in Conscious Closet)

If clothing is made to last three years, what is the reason much of it is being worn only three times? Most likely it is the problem of overconsumption. If you have more clothes than you can possibly wear, much of it is not reaching its use potential. Articles of clothing are made to last several years, but amidst a closet of hundreds of items most likely won’t reach that potential.

“More durable items like suits, blazers, jackets, coats, and tailored dresses can last even longer, five years to a decade at least, if cared for properly. Whether you plan to wear, sell, or donate your clothes, we should each do our part to make all clothing last several years or 100 wears. Let’s get to it!” (p 212)

So what can we do to help our clothing reach its use potential? We can pare our closet down to items that we truly love and want to wear, and donate the rest. We can shop smart and only choose to buy pieces that fit us well, or that we love so much we would be willing to tailor and wear again and again.

Changing Our Mindset

“Another study of UK consumers, found that a third of consumers toss out a garment if a stain doesn’t lift on the first try. A quarter admitted to not even bothering to lift a stain, if the item was cheap.” (Vanish Article on PRNewswire cited in Conscious Closet)

In her book Conscious Closet, Cline encourages her readers to change their mindset about inexpensive clothing. Even clothing that is inexpensive deserves to be treated well. We need to change our mindset about clothing in general in order to make a difference in the problems of overconsumption and overproduction. Clothing, as Cline shares, is such an intimate product we use and should be cared for accordingly.

When we change our mindset about the value of clothing, we choose to care for each item we own. We take care to mend small holes and rips. We ask for advice on lifting stains and wash multiple times with care if necessary. We donate items when they no longer fit our bodies or our style or in our closet.

Clothing Care Knowhow

“A 2014 study found that the millennial generation, raised on fast fashion, lacks mastery of basic clothing repairs and laundry skills when compared to their parents and grandparents.” (HuffPost article cited in Conscious Closet)

In middle school, I took home economics. Though believed by many middle school kids to be a silly and unnecessary class, it was there that I learned basic sewing skills that remain quite useful as an adult. But how many kids take this class, and of those that do, how many choose the sewing center? Are parents teaching their children these basic skills or is this one more thing being lost amidst the age of technology? Fortunately with the ever expanding information found online, youtube and other video sites abound with how-tos for basic hand sewing and sewing machine knowhow. For those who didn’t learn from parents or school, a quick lesson is a click away.

In her book, Cline covers the differences in textiles and the minimal cleaning much of your clothing actually needs. We are raised to assume that all pieces of clothing need to immediately go to the wash after being worn once, but Cline shares that this is not the case.

“The fashion industry is peddling so-called easy-care clothes, while laundry detergent brands and appliance makers have automated the process of stain removal and cleaning, all with higher and higher environmental costs. We’re doing laundry around the clock, calling into question the idea that washing machines are saving us time. We can do so much better.” (Conscious Closet, p 211-212)

Reset and Change

Whether it is a quick lesson on stain removal, simple mending, clothing care or a complete change in our mindset, let’s work together to educate ourselves and each other around the value of textiles. May we choose sustainable and quality pieces, slowly building up a wardrobe that we love. May we take proper care of each item regardless of the price we paid for it. And may we always remember to donate our textiles.

Recycling

Donating with R-E-S-P-E-C-T

April 21, 2021November 8, 2024

“One garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or incinerated every single second around the world.” (quoted by Elizabeth Cline in “The Conscious Closet”, p32, originally from a publication by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation)

Many of you, our readers, have asked “Can I donate this?” when referring to items that are torn or stained or in condition less pristine than “gently used.” The answer is yes. Always donate items if you are unsure. Unless it is wet or smelly, please donate it. If it is wet, dry it and then donate it. If it is smelly, wash it and then donate it. As quoted above, trashing textiles continues to be a huge problem in our world, one with huge effects on our ecosystems.

To shine a little more light on this topic, Elizabeth Cline’s book “The Conscious Closet” addresses some of the very questions you have asked and highlights some tips for Used Clothing Etiquette.

Clothing is Not Garbage

“Many of us make an honest effort to donate our gently used clothes, but we’re confused about what to do with the pieces that are worn out or broken. Isn’t it disrespectful to donate these items?” (Cline, p32)

The answer is no. Here at Chicago Textile Recycling, and most resale stores, we want all of your used textiles. As noted above, unless it is smelly or wet, please donate. There are employees highly trained at resale stores and grading facilities that sort each piece, and those that are not resaleable can still be used. Some of the uses for worn out, stained and torn clothing can be fiber content for car seat filling or insulation or wiping rags for businesses such as automotive companies and restaurants, for example. Few donated textiles are truly at their end of life, but it is always best to allow the experts to decide. So please donate textiles, no matter the condition.

“The vast majority of clothes are thrown out before their useful life is over, which amounts to lost value, resources and landfilling fees.” (Cline, p 32) Cline goes on quoting multiple sources about the millions spent in landfill fees for trashing and burning textiles, greenhouse gases emitted by clothes in landfills as well as hazardous chemicals released by some synthetics. She continues, listing the immense environmental benefits from recycling and donating clothing. With donating clothing, she highlights some tips for offering quality donations and showing respect for those to whom we donate.

Used Clothing Etiquette

In her book “Conscious Closet”, Elizabeth Cline devotes hundreds of pages to simple steps the reader can make toward caring for our Earth through taking better care of our textiles. This can be done in a myriad of ways: caring about workers making our clothes, demanding clothes of better quality, keeping textiles out of landfills, treating textiles with respect, understanding different fibers and fabrics and more. After cleaning out our closets, she shares guidelines of etiquette we should strive to follow to make the best use of items we no longer desire to own. They include:

Clean your clothes, no exceptions
Remove personal belongings and detritus
Tie your shoes together
Mend and repair
Never leave your donations outside unattended

Clean Your Clothes, No Exceptions

The first guideline she suggests is to clean your clothes before donating them. This follows our requirements that no donations be smelly or wet upon donation. “Set-in stains are fine if you’re recycling, but odors and unwashed dirt and grime are not.” (p 31) She continues, “Do this out of respect for the dozens of people who will handle your clothes. Dirty clothes also might end up in the dump, as it takes secondhand clothing dealers precious time to wash them.” If you are choosing to donate textiles to help care for our planet, and you are choosing to travel to a bin or resale store, choose also to make sure your donations are clean first.

Remove Personal Belongings and Detritus

The second guideline is to “Inspect your pockets and the fabric and remove all pet hair, lint, dirty tissues, coins, receipts, and the like” (p31). This is done out of respect for those you are donating to so that they do not have to take precious time in doing this. It also can be for your own sake. Shopping for purses at a thrift store, I once came upon a purse that had around ten $1 dollar bills inside. This person missed out on precious money by not checking their items before donation. Other times, I have pulled on my own coats when winter rolled back around only to find a $10 or $20 dollar bill I had forgotten was in the pocket. Remember to check through your items before adding them to donation bags.

Tie Your Shoes Together

Thirdly, Cline recommends tying your shoes together when donating. “There’s an overseas market for single shoes, but those that are paired up are much more valuable and have a greater chance of finding a new home.” (p 31) Again, these guidelines are about respecting workers in the secondhand business and doing small things that make a big difference with our donations.

Mend and Repair

“All donated clothing should be mended or repaired whenever possible to extend the item’s life and keep it out of landfills.” (p 31) At Chicago Textile Recycling and most bins and resale stores, torn textiles are accepted and wanted, but repaired or mended items have higher value and more salability. If you have the time and want to offer higher quality donations, mended and repaired items are greatly appreciated.

Never Leave Your Donations Outside Unattended

Lastly, as we have said before, especially during this time of Covid-19, when many resale stores have reduced hours or are even closing at times for the pandemic, it is vital that you check with your donation site first to make sure they are accepting donations at that time. If they are closed or “the collection point is full, do not leave your items outdoors unattended. Clothing left outside might get rained on or become damp and then mildew. From there, it will be landfilled.” (p 31)

R-E-S-P-E-C-T and Gratitude

All of us at Chicago Textile Recycling are thankful for your donations. A big part of our gratitude is having those who donate show respect for our planet, for their textiles and for us by following many of these guidelines of etiquette and showing great care for their textiles. It is the heart of our organization to see textiles stay out of landfills and have second lives in the hands of other consumers, as wiping rags or as fiber content. If you have further questions about donations we accept, check here and then reach out for more information or to find your nearest bin or resale store.

Green Benefits

The 5 R’s

December 17, 2019December 19, 2024

“Although 75% of America’s waste is recyclable, we only recycle around 30% of it.”

In September, the Vice President of our company attended the S.M.A.R.T. 2019 Regional Meeting in Raleigh, North Carolina. Over the course of the weekend, he attended a Panel Discussion with three leaders making a difference in the textile recycling world. One of these leaders was David Rousse, president of the International Nonwoven Disposables Association (INDA). During his presentation, David discussed plastics in the environment, the importance of recycling, and posted one salient powerpoint slide that takes the three R’s we are used to… Reuse, Reduce, Recycle…two steps further.

In his “Desired Path Forward” for the future of our planet and recycling, David calls for each of us to “Support the 5 R’s”:

Refuse – plastic bags, straws, cutlery, etc
Reduce – use of plastic in packaging
Reuse – versus disposing; may include repair
Recycle – into same or another product
Repurpose – use an item for something else

At Chicago Textile Recycling, we strongly encourage our recyclers to recycle their textiles, with us, or with their local resale store. And even further, we truly desire to see each of you go beyond recycling only textiles to eco-consciously disposing of all recyclables you come into contact with, from plastics to aluminum, cardboard and paper to anything that can be kept out of landfills by using one of these 5 R’s. “Over 11 million tons of recyclable clothing, shoes, and textiles make their way into landfills each year.” With “9 out of 10 people [saying] they would recycle if it were ‘easier,’” we at Chicago Textile Recycling hope with education about recycling and raising awareness, these numbers can change.

A few months ago, we encouraged this very idea through a blog post highlighting a few things CTR does not accept in their bins and how you can go about recycling those products in your area. Read that blog here.

Refuse – plastic bags, straws, cutlery, etc.

The first “R” David highlighted was to “Refuse” plastic bags, straws, cutlery, etc. When out and about, it is so easy to stop by a store and buy an item and simply accept a plastic bag upon purchasing that item. But David and those at INDA encourage us to refuse plastic bags. If it is something small, choose instead to carry the product(s) out of the store in your hand or purse after purchasing. Even better, place a few reusable grocery bags in your trunk, and put them back in there after unloading each time when you get home. That way, you are never in need of a plastic bag even if you’re simply making a quick stop on your way home from work.

Refuse straws and plastic cutlery by drinking with an open lid or also stocking your car with reusable straws and cutlery when out and about. Go one step further and bring your own reusable travel cup. These are small items that could even fit in your purse or backpack if you use alternative transportation getting around in daily life. Small efforts go a long way in helping reduce your carbon footprint. “According to a study done by the University of Georgia, 18 billion pounds of plastic trash winds up in our oceans each year. To put that in perspective, it’s enough trash to cover every foot of coastline around the world with five full trash bags of plastic…compounding every year.”

Reduce – use of plastic in packaging

The second “R” is to “Reduce” the use of plastic in packaging. Recently, we posted an article about how parts of Asia are reducing packaging by grouping produce items with banana leaves instead of plastic bags. (Read more here) Part of this problem is improper disposal. “The United States throws away $11.4 billion worth of recyclable containers and packaging every year.” The other part of the problem is simply reducing the need for this packaging with creative solutions, such as banana leaves for produce. “The amount of plastic film and wrap produced annually could shrink-wrap the state of Texas.”

Some ideas from this website on reducing your plastic use include opting for products in recyclable boxes or cardboard containers rather than bottles, staying out of the frozen section of the grocery store and buying bulk with reusable containers.

Reuse – versus disposing; may include repair

In our consumer-driven society, we often choose to throw away something when it is in need of repair rather than taking time to mend it or have it mended. A hundred years ago, this was not the case. Most belongings were made with high quality and longevity in mind, so when they did break or need mending, there were shops in place or know how by the general public in fixing these items at home. Many women sewed the family’s clothes, so when there was a rip in the fabric or a hole in a sock, repairs were easy and done right at home.

This newer proliferation of consumerism and the ease it brings in replacing rather than repairing has led to an overabundance of items ending up in our landfills when they could have lasted longer with a bit of loving repair. Our third “R” is “Reuse” – versus disposing, which may include repair.

Learning the basics of sewing can help many of your textiles have a longer shelf life at home and making good use of youtube videos can also help in minor repairs of items around the house. With landfills reaching their limits, it is increasingly important that we seek out items that are made with high quality and return to the mindset of repair and restoration over replacement.

Reuse and DIY (Do-It-Yourself) is in fact an up and coming trend and has the potential to again become the norm. Bloggers, Youtube sensations, a peaked interest in DIY through the creation of Pinterest and small starter companies are pursuing this very idea of reuse in restoration through antiquing, restoring old homes with reclaimed barn flooring and original revamped antique pieces, reusing old clothes items in new ways with many other ideas of reuse in the everyday. As the focus on environment and recycling continues to grow, hopefully these interests of the upcoming generation will continue to expand the idea of reuse into the norm. The saying “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure” rings true here as antiques and resale stores become a larger part of our consumer trend.

Recycle – into same or another product

The fourth “R” is “Recycle” – into the same or another product. Reuse and recycle are often confused terms so a simple explanation to differentiate the two is that reuse involves using the same product in its original form for the same or a different purpose. Recycling is a process and involves turning one product into a new product so as not to waste the material.

Recycling can involve numerous products, from cans to paper to textiles to plastic bottles, and much more. Some even make businesses out of collecting and creating art to sell with other people’s recycled goods. You can recycle paper down to pulp and create new paper or recycle blue jeans into insulation for homes. There are many ways that recycling companies have figured out how to create new products from older products with life still left in them.

As many of you know, the heart of who we are at Chicago Textile Recycling is about educating our community. Knowledge has been growing in the problem of textiles in landfills, and so has the pursuit of creating a closed loop of textiles and fashion. “Over 11 million tons of recyclable clothing, shoes and textiles make their way into landfills each year.” Donating your textiles to resale stores and donation bins is one big way you can give your textiles another life. The same is true of other goods in your home with regards to being recycled versus placed out by the curb on trash day.

Textiles can be recycled in almost every case, with the majority reused and resold in other countries. Other textiles are recycled and cut into wiping rags, and others are recycled and broken down into fibers to make filling for car seats, insulation and other products. Here is our blog about the process recycled textiles go through after donation.

Repurpose – use an item for something else

Already mentioned previously in this post is the fifth and final “R”: “Repurpose” your items for something else. There are many ways you can do this. Cutting an old coat down to a vest, using recyclables to make art, using old wood flooring to make picture frames or child size furniture, or turning old bed sheets into new clothes are just a few ways household items can be repurposed. Follow our page on Facebook or Twitter to read articles about different companies that are doing this very thing with textiles.

One example of this in our very own backyard is the Shedd Aquarium in downtown Chicago. Local artists have created sea animal sculptures outside the aquarium on display made from trash collected from our oceans. With a little bit of creativity, new purposes can be found for items anywhere you look.

wRap up

With a little extra effort, you can easily work these five R’s into your daily routine. Recycle textiles, bring along reusable bags and dining accessories, become educated in what to recycle and how to recycle it, and use a little bit of creativity when items in your everyday no longer serve their purpose. When each of us plays our small role in reducing our output to landfills, we can make a large difference in impacting our world for a better tomorrow.

All quote recycling statistics were found here.