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Circular Economy

October 27, 2022

In learning about the importance of textile recycling and what we can do to be a part of the solution, we come across many unfamiliar terms, such as downcycle, chemical recycling and circular economy to name a few. Some of these we have defined in previous blogs, such as our blog on the difference between upcycle and downcycle and our blog on the 5 R’s. In this blog, we will learn more about the term “circular economy” and the role it plays in textile recycling.

What is a Circular Economy?

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation defines circular economy as “a systems solution framework that tackles global challenges like climate change, biodiversity loss, waste, and pollution.” (Found here) When textiles are thrown away and end up in landfills, they produce greenhouse gasses and leach harmful waste into the soil, which affects the environment. To fight textile waste, the circular economy is based on “three principles, driven by design: eliminate waste and pollution, circulate products and materials and regenerate nature.” (Found here) So why is a circular economy important for textiles?

Importance of Circular Economy

A circular economy is important for textiles due to the larger and larger environmental impact made by creating new textiles and disposing of old ones.

“The current system for producing, distributing, and using clothing operates in an almost completely linear way. Large amounts of nonrenewable resources are extracted to produce clothes that are often used for only a short period, after which the materials are largely lost to landfill or incineration. It is estimated that more than half of fast fashion produced is disposed of in under a year. This linear system leaves economic opportunities untapped, puts pressure on resources, pollutes and degrades the natural environment and its ecosystems, and creates significant negative societal impacts at local, regional and global scales.” (Found here)

These resources used to create clothing will run out if continued in their current excess. Oil, fertilizers and water are used in great amounts to grow cotton and make other fibers for textiles.In addition to natural resources being compromised, greenhouse gas emissions are also contributing to the environmental impact of textile production and disposal. “In 2015, greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions from textiles production totalled 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2 equivalent, more than those of all international flights and maritime shipping combined.” (Found here) A pivot toward a circular economy would drastically reduce these figures and have a profound effect on the future of our planet.

Circular Economy Changes

What would a circular economy look like for the textile industry? What changes need to be made to drastically improve how textiles are made and disposed of? There are four points that the Ellen MacArthur Foundation proposes to create systemic and lasting change. They are:

Phase out substances of concern and microfiber release
Transform the way clothes are designed, sold and used to break free from their increasingly disposable nature
Radically improve recycling by transforming clothing design, collection, and reprocessing
Make effective use of resources and move to renewable inputs

(Found here)

Each of these points are described in much greater detail in the report and broken down to show how these goals can be attained.

Phase Out Substances of Concern and Microfiber Release

This first point aims to change processes and production of how textiles are made in order to minimize dyes, water use, chemicals and other harmful environmental impacts from creating new textiles. In addition, it looks like changing the way they are made in order to drastically reduce or eliminate plastic microfibers created in the washing process of these textiles.

Transform the Way Clothes are Designed, Sold and Used to Break Free from their Increasingly Disposable Nature

Providing access to quality clothing through new business models and changing perception of clothing from disposable to durable are key components of moving toward sustainability and a circular economy.

Radically Improve Recycling by Transforming Clothing Design, Collection, and Reprocessing

Increasing collection of textiles and creating a big picture mentality connecting each phase of the lifecycle of textiles would enhance the body of recycled textiles overall and build a mindset of continued care from production to marketing to reuse to recycling to end of life.

Make Effective Use of Resources and Move to Renewable Inputs

Effects of a circular economy would greatly reduce the need for raw inputs as textile recycling increases and clothing is utilized in more long-lasting ways, including using renewable resources for creating new clothing.

The Hope for a Circular Economy

Though these changes may seem like a huge hurdle to overcome to create a circular economy, many companies and environmentalists are already making strides toward these goals. We have posted before about companies lowering their dye usage drastically, articles on the idea to add tracking mechanisms to clothing tags to follow textiles from creation to end of life, many designers and companies using recycled textiles in their businesses and designs and sustainable companies that care about all aspects of how their textiles are made, from the quality of life of the textile workers to the environmental effects of creating new clothing and how well the pieces are made. With laws being changed in different countries for the betterment of textile production and proposals such as this one from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the creation and recycling of textiles are being changed for the better, and for that we can hope for a future that involves a truly circular economy.

Fast Fashion

Slow Fashion & Rags

September 14, 2022November 7, 2024

In our post a few months ago, we introduced the term “slow fashion,” discussing what it means, how it’s different from fast fashion and why it is important to choose slow fashion when making decisions on what clothing to purchase. In this blog we hope to discuss another large reason slow fashion is so important, which is that the slow fashion movement is paramount for the rag and recycling industries directly.

Our parent company, Wipeco, Inc. is a supply company that focuses on providing quality wiping rags to those in the industrial, manufacturing and janitorial industries. And quality is of utmost importance when creating rags from pre-consumer waste and post-consumer used textiles. For the history of wiping rags and the role they have played across the years, check out our blog post, “Wipers”.

Quality Matters

Why is quality so important when it comes to creating wiping rags? Clothing that is poorly made doesn’t make good rags.

“The days of recycled 100 percent cotton wiping rags are pretty much over, and so are the days when wiping rag manufacturers could rely on industry specifications. The problem is that clothes and textiles simply aren’t as well made as they used to be. A shirt that falls apart after a few washes can’t be transformed into a rag suitable for wiping down a freshly washed car or a restaurant table. Cheap fast fashion isn’t just hurting thrift shops; it’s hastening a garment’s trip to the landfill or garbage incinerator.” (“Secondhand: Travels in the New Global Garage Sale”, Minter, p 162)

This is why slow fashion is so important for the wiping rag industry. When consumers choose to care about the quality of their clothing and how it is made and the people who make it, everyone wins. The consumer wins by having a quality item that will last wash after wash and one that they can feel good about buying. The secondhand store wins when the consumer no longer needs that item as it will be in good condition to be resold or sent to a grader. The wiping rag supplier wins by having quality material to sell to industries in need of rags. Because the clothes last longer there is greater demand for second-hand wear in the export market AND it is less labor intensive to sort, as there is a greater percentage of rewearable or reusable items.

Fabric Matters – Polyester vs Cotton

When it comes to wiping rags, the type of fabric matters. Depending on what the rag is needed for, different fabrics will absorb and clean in different ways. Cotton is stronger and more absorbent than polyester, so allows for greater reuse. “When assessing if an old garment will make a useful rag, [Nicole Malalieu, a fashion lecturer at Australian College of the Arts] says “to steer clear of anything that’s polyester or synthetic because it just doesn’t absorb as well”. (Found Here)

Polyester and polyester blends have multifaceted challenges in terms of recycling and reuse of fabric. Polyester and even polyester blended fabrics prove ineffective for use in the wiping rag industry, causing their end of life as a textile to come much sooner than other naturally made fabrics such as cotton. The problems with polyester continue as laundering this fabric releases microplastics into the water and it does not naturally biodegrade in landfills as other textiles would – 100% cotton for example.

Some might ask, “But what about its ability to be recycled again and again into new garments?” Though it may seem a greener alternative due to this possibility, there is no current strategy for efficient separation of blended fabrics such as polyester. In contrast, 100% cotton has multiple reuse options as the absorbent material makes it highly desirable for breathability and absorption, etc.

Slow Matters

From caring for the quality of life of textile workers to caring for the environment and the life of a textile, slow fashion is a win-win for everyone.

The textile worker wins by being given a safe place to work and liveable wages.
The environment wins by having less of its resources used or polluted.
The consumer wins by having a unique, quality piece of clothing to wear that will last longer than fast fashion pieces.
The resale store wins by having quality clothing to resell for better prices.
The wiping rag supplier wins by having better quality wiping rags to supply to industries they serve.
And the environment wins yet again by having biodegradable textiles in landfills at their end of life versus ones that don’t break down.

It is easy to see that slow fashion is the best choice. As you look to purchase new clothing in the future, please consider long term benefits and choose slow fashion retailers that help all of us benefit.

Fast Fashion

Slow Fashion

July 18, 2022

Chicago Textile Recycling promotes the recycling and education around recycling of textiles. We care where your textiles end up when you no longer need or want them. We care about slowing the amount sent to landfills and the quality of items you choose to buy because eventually those items will leave your closet and higher quality items will last longer and have a better end in the secondhand and recycling market. We care that textiles are created with the environment and workers’ quality of life of high importance. And because we believe that fast fashion works against many of these things we care about and place importance on, we encourage our readers and recyclers to choose a lifestyle of “slow fashion”.

What is Slow Fashion?

So what is slow fashion and why is it important?

Put simply, slow fashion is the opposite of fast fashion. It encompasses an awareness and approach to fashion that considers the processes and resources required to make clothing. It advocates for buying better-quality garments that will last longer, and values fair treatment of people, animals, and the planet along the way. (Read more here)

These are all important pieces to the slow fashion movement…caring for our planet, our animals and our people in the decision on how our clothing is made. Where did this term ‘slow fashion’ come from? “The term ‘slow fashion’ came about quite organically. It was coined by Kate Fletcher of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, following the phenomena of the slow food movement.” (Found here)

We have highlighted before in our blog the importance of Choosing Consciously and 5 Ways to Fight Fast Fashion, and the Slow Fashion movement is one big way we can do both. The slow fashion movement is a purposeful response to fast fashion and about choosing consciously what we wear and buy based on how the item is made and the morals of the company behind it.

Differences Between Fast Fashion and Slow Fashion

Most people have heard the term ‘fast fashion’ and know what it entails, a fashion industry pushing for ever increasing sales of many times cheaply made items with no regard for the environment or the people making the clothing. In fast fashion, there is a push for numerous seasons of new styles every year.

Big brands used to release 2 main collections every year: Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter. These days, the fashion industry is at an all time crazy peak. The facts: the big names are releasing a whopping 52 “micro-seasons” per year. In other words, we’re looking at one collection / week. Fact is, the fast fashion industry is designed to make you think you are out of style after just one week. (Found here)

In stark contrast, slow fashion

…flips this model on its head with slower production schedules, slow-batch collections, and zero waste designs. Instead of chasing trends (and clogging our landfills), these brands utilize enduring styles with layering options and create classic and versatile pieces. This encourages customers to build minimalist wardrobes and invest in garments that they keep for a lifetime. (Read more here)

What are some characteristics of a slow fashion brand?

“Made from high quality, sustainable materials like linen”
“Garments are more timeless than trendy”
“Often sold in smaller (local) stores rather than huge chain enterprises”
“Locally sourced, produced and sold garments”
“Few, specific styles per collection, which are released twice or maximum three times per year, or a permanent seasonless collection”
“Often made-to-order to reduce unnecessary production”

(List found here)

Why Choose Slow Fashion?

After reading the description and characteristics of slow fashion, what is holding us back from choosing this new way of looking at and purchasing clothing? With constant pressure and advertising from the fast fashion industry, it can be hard to resist the temptation to constantly buy new pieces for our wardrobe. However, keeping in mind the principles of slow fashion, which “include: sustainable materials, fewer collections, fair trade, minimizing waste, making great use of resources and transparency,” (found here) can help each of us remember those things which are more important than donning the latest style. What helps you choose slow fashion? Share on our social media pages or contact us here to tell us why you choose slow fashion.

Fast Fashion

The Complexity of Importing Textiles

May 31, 2022

For the past few decades, Africa’s importation of secondhand clothing (SHC) from Western countries has been a complex issue fraught with threats of establishing bans from several countries and a diminishing supply of quality clothing due to fast fashion. Some argue that removing this industry of importing SHC would give local textile makers a chance to create African manufactured clothing and grow trade and job opportunities internally rather than relying on Western countries for these. But would this textile production alone be enough to provide its citizens with the jobs SHC currently provides? We and many other textile recyclers believe that this would be a very beneficial addition to African trade but not a solution as the need for SHC as an affordable clothing option remains great in these countries. This idea and others are ones we will take a better look at in this post. For a look into the problem that fast fashion and overconsumption has created in parts of Africa, learn more in this video which portrays some of those complexities.

The Importance of SHC

Here at Chicago Textile Recycling, we see evidence of the good in African countries from importing SHC, which includes an affordable clothing option for its citizens when fast fashion doesn’t hinder the quality of those textiles. Another benefit of secondhand clothing – chagua, mitumba – provides many thousands of jobs in African nations. It is a thriving business in these countries because of the demand by its citizens.

In Ghana, “SHC provides clear consumer benefits; for example, more than 90% of Ghanaians buy SHC.” (Found here)
In Kenya, “These clothes — called mitumba in Kenya after the Swahili word for “bundles” — form the bulk of Kenyans’ fashion choices: an estimated 91.5 per cent of households buy secondhand clothing priced at Ksh 1000 (around $9) and below.” (Found here)
And in Rwanda,

For many, used clothing is all they can afford. For others, shopping chagua is a way to curate their wardrobe and ensure they aren’t caught wearing the same thing as anyone else. At a recycled clothing shop in central Kigali, a smaller selection of clothes are on display, carefully hung in rows or folded into neat piles on a set of shelves. A young man in a denim shirt studded with rhinestones and paneled jeans scoffs at the idea of buying only new clothes. ‘The new clothes are like uniforms. It looks bad, like we are a sports team or a group of church singers.’”
(Read more here)

Many other countries also depend on SHC as their most affordable clothing option, even when manufacturing new local items for export.

Given their cheap labor pools, developing countries like Cameroon, Ghana, Bangladesh, and Benin can produce high-quality garments cost effectively and export to developed countries. Many cannot afford new clothing, and so the imports of used garments provide affordable clothing for everyday use. In addition, the import of such clothing has created a new domestic garment import and sales industry involving inbound logistics, transportation, and retailing to markets and other retail sales points.”
(Found here)

Decline of Secondhand Clothing

However, if SHC fills a need in these countries providing an affordable clothing option for its citizens, why are many countries proposing bans on the importation of secondhand clothing? The primary problem seems to be the decline of quality in secondhand clothing, due mainly to fast fashion. Whether it is new items from excess of fast fashion production or secondhand clothing that had a previous owner, the quality of these textiles are not what they used to be. “Smart’s [president Jackie] King counters that the lowest quality clothes are often new rather than secondhand, from fast fashion companies.” (Found here)

With the decline in quality of textiles and the rooting out of high quality items in the resale market, it’s no wonder that African nations are wanting better for the people in their countries. “Johnson Doe, leader of a group of waste pickers, based in Accra, says more clothing waste goes into landfills directly from ports than it does from markets.” (Read more here) So how can we resolve this issue of providing quality textiles in the SHC market? If SHC could return to a time when they were mostly good quality pieces, would that fix the problem of textile waste?

Employment Opportunities

Another benefit for African countries importing SHC is the employment opportunities it provides to local citizens. “Supporters of the SHC industry point out that the trade creates employment in the receiving countries (transporting, cleaning, repairing, restyling, etc.). It also provides low-cost clothing for people living in poverty.” There is no question that SHC does provide employment opportunities, both in the country exporting the textiles, as well as in the country importing them. “SHC imports provide livelihoods to hundreds of thousands of people in developing nations, including the employment of 24,000 in Senegal alone.” (Read more here)

However, some argue that those employed in receiving and organizing and selling the imported textiles could work in making local textiles instead if a ban were put in place. “In recent years, several countries have debated on import restrictions for used clothing in hopes to provide local garment manufacturers better opportunities.” (Found here) Many think this is not a viable solution as new, locally made textiles would cost a good bit more than SHC.

Back in March 2016, members of the East African Community (EAC, comprising Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda, South Sudan, Tanzania and Uganda) announced a plan to halt secondhand clothes imports in order to resurrect textile industries in East Africa that had collapsed — partly because it was difficult to compete with the throwaway prices of mitumba clothes.”
(Read more here)

Another important question is what do the citizens of African nations want? One seller of “chagua” – secondhand clothing – had this to say,

Like many of the sellers here, she has been in this business for a long time-30 years of supporting five children through sales of chagua. When asked what she thinks of the government’s concern for the dignity of its people and hygiene issues of recycled clothing, she accuses the government of conspiracy. “The government is lying, lying, lying. There’s something else behind it,” she says. She has heard about the proposed ban on television. “It won’t benefit us at all,” she says.”
(Read more here)

Though she is only one seller among many thousands, it remains important to look at all sides of this multifaceted issue. There are many who rely on SHC for their livelihood and removing these jobs would pull the rug out from thousands of African citizens. The question remains, would creating locally made textiles provide enough jobs for those if SHC was banned from these countries? Most likely, the answer is no. Perhaps a better solution would be manufacturing quality, African-made textiles for export AND continuing to import SHC as a clothing option for its citizens. And is there another issue at hand that would help solve the problems of textile waste in African countries?

Resolution

“The true solution needs to come from the consumer and the manufacturers – creating AND purchasing environmentally friendly clothing that can last a LONG TIME,” says Chicago Textile Recycling’s Project Management Officer Kim Woycke. What does this look like?

For companies, this looks like having ethical standards for workers and quality of clothing and amount of clothing produced. It looks like making textiles in smaller, more environmentally-friendly batches and not pushing new styles every week but returning to seasons of new styles before fast fashion became what it is now. It looks like having standards for quality of clothing so whether it ends up at a local resale store or in an African nation, it remains a well-made piece that lasts a long time and stands up to normal wear and tear.

For consumers, this looks like resisting impulse buys, or cheap buys. It looks like having standards for the clothes one purchases, requiring that they be well-made by companies that have fair-labor practices and companies that pursue creating textiles with environmentally-friendly methods. This looks like choosing resale when these standards mentioned are not an option, so that fast fashion companies receive the message that they need to do better for their consumers. When you choose this way, you are also showing the people in these African nations who import SHC that you care for them and that you want better textile choices for everyone.

For African citizens, it looks like continuing to import SHC to provide locals an affordable clothing option AND creating/maintaining local textile manufacturing opportunities to create high-quality clothing options for export.

A Better Future

Though this blog merely skims the surface of the problems faced by countries importing SHC, we hope that our readers have become more aware of some of the issues around this topic and can educate themselves further through the articles referenced throughout this blog and others. This topic is not black and white but very gray and one that needs to be addressed on all sides before it will become better for the citizens of African countries. What do you think? Are there ideas brimming of how to help this situation for everyone involved? Comment here or on our post on social media to share ideas you may have.

Fast Fashion

5 Ways to Fight Fast Fashion

April 18, 2022

This week is Fashion Revolution week. Part of caring for our planet is highlighting the importance of recycling textiles and keeping them out of landfills. Another part of caring for our planet is caring how new textiles are made, including the usage of water and energy, how dyes are used and disposed and the people making those very textiles. Each year, Fashion Revolution week highlights the importance of caring for the conditions textile workers face in their day to day making the clothing items we buy.

History of Fashion Revolution

The Fashion Revolution began in 2013, surrounding the news story about the Rana Plaza building in Bangladesh, which

“…housed a number of garment factories, employing around 5,000 people. The people in this building were manufacturing clothing for many of the biggest global fashion brands. The building collapsed and killed 1,134 people and injured more than 2,500 others, making it the fourth largest industrial disaster in history. The victims were mostly young women.” (found here)

Fashion Revolution week is about raising awareness and speaking out against companies that continue to abuse their textile workers through too little pay, long hours, terrible working conditions and various other reasons. It is about creating standards for these same workers and promoting clothing companies with sustainable clothing choices and ethical business practices.

Wondering how you can help? Here are five ways to fight fast fashion.

Social Media Awareness

“One of the simplest ways we can push for industry change is by using social media to challenge brands and hold them accountable to the people in their supply chain during Fashion Revolution week.” (Get Involved Guide, page 11)

How you do this is? Post a picture or video of yourself holding a poster from the Fashion Revolution website on any social media platform and tag the brand of clothing you are wearing. Hashtag your post according to the poster, the most popular of which is #WhoMadeMyClothes? Learn more about how you can help in this way on pages 10-11 of the guide here.

Email Your Policymaker

Another way to fight fast fashion is to email your policymaker and ask #WhoPaysLivingWages? In their “Get Involved Guide”, they offer an email template for doing this, which pushes “for tougher legislation to support” textile workers. You can find the template on page 15 of the guide. They also include a helpful link to find your local policymakers.

Become Knowledgeable About Textiles

Thirdly, Fashion Revolution offers a fanzine “Money Fashion Power” which “explores the hidden stories behind your clothing, what the price you pay for fashion means, how garment workers spend their earnings, and how purchasing power can make positive change.” You can find a link to the fanzine in the Get Involved Guide, page 21. There are also countless books published about textiles, that discuss everything from how clothing is made to the lifecycle of a textile to the history of sweatshops. Knowledge is power and simply educating ourselves about the rights of textile workers is sometimes all that is necessary to ignite passion in joining the cause to fight for others.

Share a Story

Sharing a story or writing a love letter about an article of clothing you own is a fourth way to fight fast fashion. One of the big problems with fast fashion is making textiles into completely disposable items, items that do not have importance or worth. But, if you have ever owned a pair of jeans that fit you like a glove, or been given a quilt that was on the bed of your great grandmother or found a pair of shoes that took away all of your foot pain, you know that this is not true. Textiles do and can have immeasurable worth. Textiles tell stories in and of themselves. Who made the shirt you were wearing? What was happening in that person’s life as they sewed on each sleeve? Who carried it in their cargo and how far did it travel? Each textile has a history and as we have posted in a previous blog, it is important to show respect for our clothes.

When you post a story or love letter, include the hashtags #LovedClothesLast and #FashionLoveStory.

Join the #SmallButPerfect Network

A final way to fight fast fashion is to join the #SmallButPerfect network that supports small businesses and connects them into a network “of change-makers and social enterprises who will transform fashion.” Small businesses often work hard to make sustainable, quality textiles that come from factories with quality living conditions and liveable wages. Supporting these small businesses and connecting them through a network helps them thrive and endure against the mega industry of fast fashion. Find out more in the Guide on pages 32 and 33.

Further Ways to Fight Fast Fashion

These five ways are a small sample to the many ways you can help fight fast fashion. The “Get Involved Guide” on Fashion Revolution’s website has further ways to get involved as well as being filled with information and support for consumers and producers of textiles.

Here at Chicago Textile Recycling, we care deeply about textiles. We care about where they end up, not in landfills but being recycled over and over to their end of life, and we care about where they come from, which includes the hands that weave the fabric and sew the pieces together. We hope that you, reader, will join us in our journey to educate others about the importance of textiles, that you will choose to recycle those in your care and further, that you will learn more about the starting point of these textiles and the hands that make them.

Green Benefits

15 Reasons to Recycle

February 28, 2022

Have you ever stopped for a moment as you are once again sifting through your closet or dresser, deciding what to give away, and asked yourself, “Why is it even important to recycle these? What good does it do?” Our answer is that those are great questions! There are countless reasons to recycle textiles. From the health of our planet to decreasing demand in sweatshops to helping others afford gently used clothing to serving communities, there are so many reasons to donate textiles and not simply throw them in the trash. Here is a list of some of the reasons we have come up with to recycle your textiles…

Reduce Waste in Landfill

The first reason to recycle your textiles is to reduce the amount of waste sent to landfills. “More than 146 tons of municipal solid waste (50.0 percent) were landfilled in 2018.” (data found here) From this number, 11.3 million tons of textiles were landfilled in 2018. Both of these numbers increased from 2017 to 2018. Reducing waste sent to landfills has numerous benefits, from saving villages and cities money to slowing the number of landfills needed to accommodate our waste to reducing harmful greenhouse gasses emitted by landfill waste.

Reduce Greenhouse Gasses

The second reason to recycle your textiles is to reduce greenhouse gasses being emitted by landfills. “[Landfilled textiles’] lack of oxygen leads to decomposition through anaerobic digestion, which means that microorganisms break down the organic manner, producing byproducts like methane. Produced consistently and uncontrollably, methane escapes into the atmosphere, harming our air quality and our planet.” (quote found here) Reducing the number of textiles being sent to landfills can improve the air quality, and in turn improve the health of our planet.

Helps Others in Low Income Households

In addition to improving air quality and the health of our planet, recycling textiles also helps others in low income situations. “Selling gently used clothing at a discounted price can help families and individuals dress themselves with dignity and style without breaking the bank. This can help increase self esteem and even help one more easily gain better employment and social mobility.” (quote found here)

Helps Others in Your Community

In addition to helping those in low income households, recycling textiles also supports your community. When you recycle textiles locally, most charity shops or thrift stores use money from sales to pay it forward to different charities and organizations nearby. Whether it is a women’s shelter, or job training facility or serving the homeless, you can feel good about knowing your donations are helping others in your community. And of course, this is in addition to the other benefits of taking care of our planet.

Reduces Energy and Water Consumption

“Every piece of clothing you’re wearing has gone through a complex manufacturing process that uses a high amount of electricity, water, and other energy sources. Recycling clothes saves energy by reducing…the need to make materials from scratch.” (found here) How much does this help? “Manufacturing products produced from raw materials requires consuming a lot of non-renewable energy – up to 95% more energy utilized during the production of virgin materials as opposed to recycled materials.” (found here) Reducing the use of non-renewable resources helps care for our planet.

Sends Message to Fast Fashion

Another reason to recycle textiles and buy secondhand is to send a message to fast fashion that you are not okay with their current business practices. From constantly rotating fashions to never-ending new product lines, fast fashion produces constant pressures to keep up and buy more and more. By choosing to consciously step out of that pressure and focus on making conscientious choices about how you care for the clothes that you own and the new items you do buy, you can send the message by not supporting what fast fashion has to offer. Fast fashion companies AND consumers are responsible for making a new way for consumerism with more ethical practices and more environmentally-friendly methods of production.

Fewer Sweatshops

“The demand for clothing can often lead to outsourcing business practices that result in poor treatment of foreign workers and other basic rights violations.” (found here) In Pietra Rivoli’s 2005 book, “The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy,” she writes,

“According to figures from the U.S. National Labor Committee, some Chinese workers make as little as 12–18 cents per hour working in poor conditions. And with the fierce global competition that demands ever lower production costs, many emerging economies are aiming to get their share of the world’s apparel markets, even if it means lower wages and poor conditions for workers.”

Recycling textiles and buying secondhand reduces the demand for new clothing purchases and sends the message to fast fashion companies that consumers care for those who make their clothing and how it is made.

Helps Others in Developing Countries

In addition to helping those in low income households and supporting those in our communities, recycling textiles can also help others in developing countries. When recycled textiles are sent overseas, workers are employed to sort through bales and other workers are employed to help sell the products in the market. The employment of workers and sale of these used textiles can help bolster a country’s economy when it is struggling to thrive.

Protecting the Planet for Future Generations

“The resources on this planet are ultimately finite. The two key fibers in the textile industry are cotton and polyester which represent over 85% of global fiber production. Cotton relies on a finite land mass for agriculture and competes with food production. Polyester relies on finite sources of oil (petroleum based) and its extraction is damaging to the environment.” (found here)

In addition to depleting finite resources in producing new textiles, there are many harmful environmental factors with sending textiles to landfills. From reducing waste and greenhouse gasses to reducing contaminated groundwater and deadly diseases, there are numerous reasons to recycle textiles to help protect our planet. Instead of contributing to its demise and playing a further role in the problem, we each can choose to help our planet become a cleaner and better place to live, both for ourselves and future generations.

Reduces Demand for Dyes and Fixing Agents

Another reason to recycle textiles is to reduce the need for dyes and fixing agents that contaminate groundwater.

“Textile products use dye when manufacturing from virgin sources – recycling allows less production and usage of harmful dyes. Many dyes do not degrade in water, while others produce harmful substances that leach into surrounding soil and groundwater. Recycling reuses materials that have already been dyed, which helps in reducing wastewater – another major contributor to large amounts of pollution.” (found here)

This is yet another factor in taking care of our planet. We have posted before about companies that are finding ways to reuse dyes in their textiles or ways around this harmful practice. By recycling textiles and buying secondhand, we can slow the process of this contamination.

Recycling Saves Money

Contamination also occurs in landfills, which can cost villages and towns a large amount of money to maintain and clean up. When comparing costs of recycling facilities and landfills, “landfilling can be three times more expensive than recycling. The health cost benefits from reduced pollution and greenhouse gas emissions can add up to more than $55.00 per ton less than landfilling.” What causes these higher costs for landfills? “Landfills eventually leak. The toxic waste can seep into the ground, contaminating soil and water. Cleanup costs run into tens of millions of dollars [to] taxpayers.” (quotes found here)

Reduces Contaminated Groundwater

As mentioned in the previous two reasons for textile recycling, contaminated groundwater is a serious issue affected by production of new textiles and sending old textiles to landfills. The wastewater that results from using harmful dyes and fixing agents in textile production leeches into groundwater and pollutes water used by communities and wildlife. Textiles that are non biodegradable sent to landfills eventually leak toxic waste into surrounding soil and water, also affecting surrounding communities and wildlife. “Landfills leach a myriad of pollutants that range from heavy metals to priority pollutants to organic compounds that contaminate groundwater. Once groundwater is contaminated it is impossible to clean up and the EPA recommends abandoning the source.” (found here)

Recycling Creates Jobs

“For each one job that is created by a landfill, recycling processing can create 10 new jobs, and an additional 25 jobs are created by recycling-based manufacturers.” In textile recycling, there are nearly countless jobs to fill: thrift store employees, graders, sorters, downcyclers, barge operators and shipyard workers, researchers, entrepreneurs, chemical recyclers, designers, seamstresses, jobs for you and me who sell used items on internet platforms, and on and on.

Reduces Deadly Diseases

One more reason to recycle textiles is to reduce potential deadly diseases from contamination in landfills. In their post on reasons to recycle, Cacala states “inhaling greenhouse gasses can lead to respiratory ailments, and contaminated water leads to infectious diseases like typhoid, diarrhea, and dysentery.” When we choose to recycle textiles, we decrease the amount that is headed into landfills, thus reducing the amount of greenhouse gasses emitted and reducing the amount of pollutants contaminating the groundwater.

Buying Used is Fashionable

“Repurposed, recycled, and reused clothing is gaining a larger niche each year in modern society. Thrift store finds are not only good for the environment, humanity, and your wallet, but they are also actually very fashionable.” (found here) We have posted before about buying used and vintage at the Holidays for a one of a kind piece to give to those you love. Resale sites are growing exponentially and include millions of sellers and buyers scouting items for rare and vintage, as well as everyday used items in good condition. In our previous blog on the Conscious Closet, Elizabeth Cline talks about purchasing vintage items in thrift stores and on online resale platforms to create her capsule wardrobe and her own unique look.

Recycling Textiles

Here at Chicago Textile Recycling, we are thankful for each of you who chooses to donate old textiles. “By supporting an initiative like clothing recycling, you are not only taking action against overconsumption, violation of human rights, and environmental degradation, you are contributing to your own personal empowerment.” (found here) Textile recycling and shopping secondhand are small ways to help out in big ways. For more information about acceptable items or any questions you may have, please contact us.

Green Benefits

Choose Consciously

May 20, 2021August 25, 2021

What does it mean to choose consciously? And why is it important? Here at Chicago Textile Recycling, we educate readers around and encourage textile recycling, but also want our readers to be mindful of the clothes and textiles they add to their closet when in need of purchasing new (to you) items.

“So what is a conscious closet? A conscious closet is a wardrobe built with greater intention and awareness of our clothes, where they come from, what they’re made out of, and why they matter.” (Cline, p 5)

Conscious closets are made up of timeless pieces, secondhand steals, vintage, and quality items. They are thoughtfully created with textile workers’ quality of life, textile sustainability and environmental repercussions in mind. They are all unique and reflect each of our personal styles.

Why Choose a Conscious Closet? Less is Best

“Less is a boon for the planet. It is the single most effective way we can reduce our fashion footprint. The vast majority of the clothing industry’s environmental toll happens while manufacturing new clothes, specifically in the process of turning fiber into fabrics.” (Cline, p 51)

Textile recycling helps keep clothing out of landfills and reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Buying sustainably reduces the environmental impact greatly, but as stated above, the very best way to help our planet is to simply buy less.

According to a study in 2018, Americans “have the second highest percentage of unworn clothes: 82 percent of their items never saw the light of day last year.” (Read more here)

If we are only utilizing 18% of the items in our closet, why do we continue to buy more?

“Our closets are meant to hold the beautiful things that we are excited to wear. But they’ve been hijacked and turned into dark recesses for our impulse buys and fashion regrets, and clothes that we don’t like, that don’t work, that don’t fit, and that just need to go.” (Cline, p 15)

Fast fashion is part of the problem. The fashion industry changing trends not only every season, but nearly every week creates this desire to constantly purchase new trending items nearly every week. It is impossible to keep up and creates immense waste. But fast fashion is only part of the problem. There is also a responsibility the consumer needs to take to resist constantly purchasing new pieces. One idea Cline gives in her book is taking a “fashion fast”.

A fashion fast is a “full and intentional break from buying new clothes and the perfect way to kick off the Art of Less.” (Cline, p 53) During the fast, you can: tackle wardrobe repairs, shop your closet, and/or take a capsule wardrobe challenge. (p 55)

A Capsule Wardrobe

One of the ideas Elizabeth Cline gives in her book is creating a capsule wardrobe. This idea has been put to use in numerous fashion blogs, and similar to the idea of a 30 day, 30 items challenge mentioned here but more permanent. “A capsule wardrobe is a small, perfectly planned-out, tightly edited wardrobe of versatile clothes. It’s a wardrobe distilled to its essence, with no extraneous pieces…What defines a capsule wardrobe is not its smallness but the versatility and intentionality of its contents.” (p 102)

Cline discusses further how to create a capsule wardrobe for your personal fashion style and how it is something that can be formed and modified over the years. Put simply, it begins with cleaning out your closet, choosing primarily pieces that can work with many different items in your wardrobe. And then moving forward, pursuing sustainable, or secondhand/vintage pieces to add in. It is about being intentional with what you own, and showing respect to your clothes, even the less quality pieces, taking time to mend and later recycle them.

Choose Quality over Quantity

In addition to constantly changing trends, fast fashion has also reduced the quality of textiles in their pursuit of making the most clothing for the lowest price. Though many companies have pledged to increase wages and conditions for their workers and produce clothing more sustainably, it continues to be a widespread problem. When purchasing new pieces for your closet, we encourage our readers to choose pieces from companies that are pursuing these positive changes.

“Good-quality clothing is good for the planet because it lasts. But quality also lasts because it’s so damn compelling. It’s that essence that draws you to a garment again and again.” (p 57)

At the end of the day, we want to feel good in what we wear. We want our clothes to fit well and to represent our personality and style. Why waste precious money and time buying textiles that sit in your closet for years unworn? We encourage each of you, dear readers, to choose consciously. Choose with intentionality. And please recycle your textiles.

Circular Economy

What is a Circular Economy?

Importance of Circular Economy

Circular Economy Changes

Phase Out Substances of Concern and Microfiber Release

Transform the Way Clothes are Designed, Sold and Used to Break Free from their Increasingly Disposable Nature

Radically Improve Recycling by Transforming Clothing Design, Collection, and Reprocessing

Make Effective Use of Resources and Move to Renewable Inputs

The Hope for a Circular Economy

Slow Fashion & Rags

Quality Matters

Fabric Matters – Polyester vs Cotton

Slow Matters

Slow Fashion

What is Slow Fashion?

Differences Between Fast Fashion and Slow Fashion

Why Choose Slow Fashion?

The Complexity of Importing Textiles

The Importance of SHC

Decline of Secondhand Clothing

Employment Opportunities

Resolution

A Better Future

5 Ways to Fight Fast Fashion

History of Fashion Revolution

Social Media Awareness

Email Your Policymaker

Become Knowledgeable About Textiles

Share a Story

Join the #SmallButPerfect Network

Further Ways to Fight Fast Fashion

15 Reasons to Recycle

Reduce Waste in Landfill

Reduce Greenhouse Gasses

Helps Others in Low Income Households

Helps Others in Your Community

Reduces Energy and Water Consumption

Sends Message to Fast Fashion

Fewer Sweatshops

Helps Others in Developing Countries

Protecting the Planet for Future Generations

Reduces Demand for Dyes and Fixing Agents

Recycling Saves Money

Reduces Contaminated Groundwater

Recycling Creates Jobs

Reduces Deadly Diseases

Buying Used is Fashionable

Recycling Textiles

Choose Consciously

Why Choose a Conscious Closet? Less is Best

A Capsule Wardrobe

Choose Quality over Quantity

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